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2014.11.22
「とちの実」は縄文時代から食べられてきた食材で飢饉の時は飢救作物として保存されてなじみ深い実です。
ですが栃の実を拾って、実際に食べられるようにするにはとっても時間と手間とテクニックが必要であることはあまり知られていません。
このシリーズでは古くからの食文化や様々な知恵と工夫、そしてとちの木がある森林との良い関係などを学びます。
森のめぐみ・とちの実をいただこう(３回シリーズ)の最終回が行われました。
講師は伊藤武男さん。とち餅作りだけでなく、山菜や山仕事、道具の直し、物作りなどなんでもできるプロです。瀬戸地区の高倉砂防えん堤のことも伊藤さんにお聞きすれば教えていただけます。
そして、今回は餅つきがメインということで、瀬戸地区の伊藤求区長、瀬戸の歴史や文化に詳しい伊藤幹夫氏、瀬戸の食文化の専門家である伊藤ゆり子氏にもご指導いただきました。
この日はお天気も良く、11月下旬とは思えない暖かさ。伊藤武男さんからのお話も外でお聞きすることにしました。
とち餅は第１回(11/8)、第２回(11/15)で行ってきた工程であく抜きした「とちの実」を使いました。
最初はもち米を蒸すところから。蒸し器からは湯気が上がり、もち米の良い香りがします。
かつては、とちの実ともち米は別々に蒸して、臼の中で一緒にしてついたそうですが最近はもち米を蒸す時に一緒に蒸してしまうそうです。
蒸しあがりのとちの実はまるで栗のようで、美味しそうな色と香りがします。
臼の中で小突きをすると見る見るうちにとちの実の色がもち米にうつり、茶色に変化してきます。
さあ、いよいよ餅つきです。先ずは講師の伊藤武男さんが「つき手」をして「臼取り」は伊藤ゆり子さんです。お二人は手際良く、あっと言う間につるりとしたお餅に。
あと少しでできあがりというところで、私たちに作業が回ってきました！
参加の皆さんは久しぶりの餅つきの方ばかり。重い杵を持ち、伊藤武男さんに教えていただきながら、餅つき開始です。杵が重すぎたり、腰が引けてしまいますが餅つきってなんだか楽しいですね！
順番に交代しながら餅つきをしていきますが、その間もとち餅は冷えることなくほかほかと湯気を上げています。武男さんにお聞きすると、もち米だけだと直ぐに冷めて、表面が堅くなってくるそうですが、とち餅は何故か冷めずに、堅くなることもないそうです。つきあがってしばらくたっても熱々です。
つきあがったお餅は、餅切り専用機械を使って、丸く大きさを整えます。
ハンドルを回す回数で餅の大きさを決めることができます。決まった大きさになったら切って、そのあとは手で丸く整え「もろびた(餅を入れる平たい箱)」に入れていきます。
餅切りを教えてくださった伊藤ゆり子さんは、餅切り専用機械は使わずに手で切って丸め綺麗に仕上げていきます。
きな粉餅にもチャレンジしました。こちらは手でちぎって、きな粉の入ったボールへ直接入れます。甘く味付けされたきな粉はとち餅にとても合います。
伊藤ゆり子さんいただいた、干し柿と一緒に試食です。やわらかいのに、しっかりした食べ応えで大満足！これまでの作業の大変さをふりかえるととち餅への思いも深くなります。
みんなでテーブルを囲んで、干し柿の作り方や、サルナシの焼酎の話、とちの実のはなしなどワイワイとにぎやかな時間を過ごしました。
(区長さんからは「サルナシ」の実をいただきました。焼酎に漬けてみます！)
体験の後は晩秋の瀬戸地区と林道を散策。冬支度も終盤になっている家々の雪つりや雪囲いを見学しながら進みます。
林道近くになると、常緑樹のなかに広葉樹が混じった山が見えます。色のコントラストが美しいです。落葉した木の隙間からは青空も見え、秋の深まりと貴重な青空に気付かされます。間もなく、雪の降る季節になるのかと思うと、本当に貴重な晴れ間であり時間であったのだと思いました。
最後に伊藤武男さんを囲んでのふりかえり。
「とちの実」のアク取りの大変さ、それを伝承する世代がいない(少ない)ことなどを話しました。確かにとても手間がかかり、失敗することもある栃の実。
ですが、その栃の実を拾い、アクを取り、食べられるようにするまでには多くの技術と目に見えない経験値と先人の知恵が凝縮されています。また、栃の木をはぐくむ里山が必要だということ。里山も近年、手入れがされず荒れてしまうことが多くあります。
今回のシリーズでは、「とち餅」の作り方を教えていただきながら「とち餅」作りの背後に広がっている多くのことを私たちは知ることができました。
実際に伝承することは難しいとは思いますが、「知る」ことそしてそれを他の人に「伝える」こと、「記録する」ことは出来ると思います。このシリーズにご参加くださった皆さんは是非「伝えて」くださいね。
そして、3回にわたりとち餅作りを教えていただいた伊藤武男さん、伊藤求さん、伊藤幹夫さん、伊藤ゆり子さん本当にありがとうございました。
